If a man owns a popular Fredericksburg bar/restaurant, then closes it to focus attention on a different bar/restaurant, does that make him a republican?

It would seem so in the case of Brian Hyland, co-owner of J. Brian’s Tap Room—where political signs supporting GOP candidates are prominently and proudly displayed.

(Hungry Democrats are welcome, too, of course.)

Longtime Fredericksburg residents remember the Hyland family’s earlier venture, the Irish Brigade on Princess Anne Street, known as much for its darts and live music as for its food and drink.

Over the years J. Brian’s has established itself as more upscale and less collegiate than the Brigade, and its patrons are older, better-behaved and more affluent.

J. Brian’s bar attractions are 20 beers on tap and a jukebox playing the likes of Herb Alpert, Frank Sinatra, Bob Dylan, Jimmy Buffett, Terrance Simien and even ABBA—but definitely not *NSYNC.

J. Brian’s has an attractive nonsmoking dining room, with big windows, high ceilings, roomy booths, Civil War prints and original paintings by local artists.

Chef Marshall Hutton supplements the regular menu of appetizers, sandwiches, salads, pizzas, dinner entrées and homemade desserts with creative nightly specials featuring fish, lamb, chicken or beef.

I’ve often made a meal of J. Brian’s appetizers, especially the artichoke and spinach dip on pita crisps ($5.95), the chicken quesadilla with black beans ($6.50) and the tomato–artichoke quesadilla ($5.50).

Each could be a tasty and light lunch or dinner, especially when accompanied by a pint of Virginia-brewed Dominion Victory Amber or Mobjack Red Ale.

Recently I tried the stuffed jalapeños appetizer ($4.95). I have a healthy respect for hot peppers, having been burned before. But these were mild, halved and seeded before being further tamed with a cream cheese filling. They had just a little bite, and lots of crunch.