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Date published: 10/3/2002
THE RECORD (BERGEN COUNTY, N.J.) HACKENSACK, N.J.--Sad fact: An uncooled Nabisco delivery truck is no kind of place for the Mallomar. Humid heat, dry heat--it doesn't matter what variety of heat. Warm weather of any kind is lethal to the little guys, morphing them from delightful chocolate-coated cookies to something closer to campfire s'mores. Nabisco, maker of the Mallomar, does the merciful thing and halts production from April to September. This week marks the annual return to supermarket shelves, much to the delight of the masses caught in the Mallomar grapplehold in New York and New Jersey. It is here--for reasons the makers of Mallomar can't quite explain--that 70 percent of the cookie's sales originate. "I just remember growing up and eating them," said Mallomar maven Dolores Butler of Paramus, N.J. "If you grow up and eat them, you probably eat them later" in life. Standing in an aisle of ShopRite on Route 4 in Paramus, Robert Becker grabbed a cadmium yellow box and suffered a guilty moment. "I could go through boxes of these. It's terrible," he said. How can they resist, what with 8-foot, end-of-aisle displays in space ordinarily reserved for multipacks of paper towels? "When they return, some media outlets told me they throw Mallomar parties," said Erin Bondy Lanuti, a spokeswoman for Kraft, parent company of Nabisco. The Mallomar was developed 89 years ago in a West Hoboken, N.J. bakery. Now Mallomar is one of Nabisco's most popular cookies. Nabisco doesn't like to say the cookies are merely wrapped in chocolate. They're "enrobed." The graham base is baked first, and then the marshmallows--Nabisco makes its own--are plopped on top. After the chocolate is poured on, the finished cookie is dumped into a 40-foot-long cooling chamber. When they leave the factory, they are 18 to an 8-ounce package, lined up just so. Rosie O'Donnell raved about them on her daytime talk show. Mentions surfaced in the films "When Harry Met Sally" and "The First Wives Club."
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