By NEVA TRENIS

THE FREE LANCE–STAR

If you go to to Olde Towne Wine and Cheese Deli at midday, take a number. The 200 to 300 lunches served there daily show that you can judge a lunch spot by the size of the crowd.

The Caroline Street restaurant started 17 years ago as a wine shop that sold a few sandwiches and cheeses. The current owners, Tim and Cathy Riorden, took over six years ago and converted it to a full-fledged deli with fresh and delicious soups, quiches, salads and sandwiches.

Olde Towne Wine and Cheese is the kind of place where it is easy to become a regular, and where staff members often greet customers by name and anticipate their orders.

The restaurant offers 15 types of top quality Boar’s Head meats and more than 25 cheeses. Order at the counter either from the standing menu (more than 40 sandwiches!) or from the specials board.

On a recent chilly afternoon, I enjoyed a bowl of creamy chicken and vegetable soup. There’s no soup Nazi here—the service at Olde Towne Wine and Cheese is consistently friendly—and the soup is delicious.

The cream of chicken was full of minced potato, carrot, celery and chunks of chicken. I coupled mine with a “Bacchus” ($5.50 for a soup, half-sandwich combo). The lean roast beef, turkey and sharp cheddar on a kaiser roll came with chips and a pickle.

A steaming (plastic foam) cup of Earl Gray tea (85 cents) eased the chill of the day, as did the inviting atmosphere. I enjoyed a comfortable wooden chair, ample sunlight and the buzz of conversation as I ended lunch with a freshly baked toffee chip cookie ($1).

Olde Towne also has dessert bars ($2) in lemon, layered coconut with chocolate, and peanut butter, and slices of cake ($2.75).