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Sample Pakistani cuisine at no-frills spot

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Date published: 4/3/2003

THE FREE LANCE-STAR

BURGER AND KABAB

367 Warrenton Road (Old Forge Plaza)

Falmouth

Phone: 540/370-1878

Hours: Monday, 11 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.

Tuesday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Saturday, noon to 8 p.m.

Closed on Sundays

Price range: Entrees--$5 to $9.50

Atmosphere: Overly bright, nondescript room with a loud television that is nearly always on. You order at the counter and sit down while your food is prepared fresh and delivered to the table on disposable plates with plastic utensils.

Payment: TAKE CASH. They don't accept credit cards or personal checks.

Other info: This is a Pakistani-owned restaurant in a gritty strip shopping center. The food is interesting, with layers of delicate and strong spices. The owners are friendly and curious about what Fredericksburg-area diners want. No appetizers or desserts available yet; nor is there a children's menu. The restaurant will deliver food if you're calling from within a 3-mile radius.

There's definite potential here at Burger and Kabab. The food is interesting, affordable and zesty. The owner wants to please Fredericksburg diners adventurous enough to try Pakistani food.

Everything is informal here. You order your food at a counter in one room, then choose a seat in the other. You eat on disposable plates, with plastic forks and spoons. You reach in and choose your bottled drink from a convenience-store-like case.

It's so ordinary it's almost depressing. Hey, you're thinking, if I'd wanted to go on a picnic

Ah, but then there's the food. Unless of course you know how to prepare a chapli kabab on rice at home. Didn't think so.

There's nothing ordinary about the food at Burger and Kabab. They cook chicken and beef a few different, tasty ways and serve them with two sauces--a hot, red one and a cool, yogurty green one. It's all delicious.

The chicken comes curried in a brown gravy over rice with flat, grilled bread ($6.99). This dish wasn't printed on the menu, but the owner told us about it with a knowing smile. We immediately ordered it.

You can also have your chicken grilled in large chunks over rice ($6.50), stuffed inside a pita with vegetables ($6.50) or fried on the bone, American style ($4.99 for four pieces).


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Date published: 4/3/2003