THE FREE LANCE-STAR

If you want to see a show of hard work, sit at the counter at Baja Fresh Mexican Grill during the lunch rush hour. From behind the glass, customers can watch as Baja's efficient staff make burritos, fajitas, enchiladas and quesadillas from ingredients cooked and chopped on the spot at the storefront in Central Park.

I watched recently as a cook grilled fresh chicken breasts; thin, marinated steaks; tomatoes; and scallions. Another stirred beans and salsa. And everyone worked at a fevered pace to the beat of high-volume salsa music, keeping up with non-stop orders from the steady stream of lunch customers.

Some in line that day had tried Baja Fresh in other towns and said they were happy to have one in Fredericksburg. The local restaurant, part of a chain owned by Wendy's International, has been open almost two weeks.

Baja Fresh Grill has a sleek black-and-white decor with some raised tables and a kitchen-side eating bar. There are also outside tables. A large menu board is posted over the open cooking area to help customers place their orders at the counter.

A designated place for pickup orders, a nice and thoughtful touch, means call-ahead customers won't have to wait in a long line.

Eat-in customers take a number and wait for their food.

On a recent visit, I was most impressed by the grilled shrimp that came on the Shrimp Ensalada ($7.50). They were small Gulf shrimp grilled to smoky perfection. A generous portion of them were sprinkled on a salad of crisp romaine lettuce with fresh pico de gallo salsa--minced tomato, onion, peppers and cilantro--and savory ranch dressing. Chips came on the side.

Those same shrimp are available in a taco ($2.50) with chopped onion, cilantro and either mild salsa verde or the hotter salsa roja.