THE FREE LANCE-STAR

Last week in this space, restaurant reviewer Laura Moyer revisited her favorite dishes of 2003.

This week, I look back at the restaurant meals I have eaten in the line of duty. Many were forgettable--some I wish I could forget--but the few listed below stand out.

This list of favorites comprises only restaurants that I reviewed this year.

Guru Restaurant's bhindi masala, Dec. 11: "I found the most delightful okra--bhindi masala--as part of the lunch buffet. Owner Devainder Mathur told me it was the first dish he learned from his mother when he was in fifth grade. In loving detail, he explained the method of making the okra tender and flavorful without a trace of slime. Card-carrying okra-haters at my table went back for seconds."

Guru's tandoori lamb Dec. 11: "Perfectly tender lamb kabobs."

Homemade gnocchi at Sorriso, May 22: "Gnocchi are a cross between pasta and dumplings: Owner Piyapong Jatuporn kneads mashed potato with flour, makes fat little lumps of the dough, then ridges the back with a fork.

I am wary of restaurant gnocchi that purport to be homemade, because I've been served so many that are obviously from a package. But Jatuporn's gnocchi are fresh and tender. "

Sorriso's house calamari with linguine, May 22: "Sorriso's 'house calamari' are some of the most tender squid I have tasted. The chef throws them in a searing hot pan, simmers them with a bit of wine and garlic, then tosses the calamari and its savory juices over al dente linguine.

The combination is superb."

Baja Fresh's gulf shrimp, Oct. 16: "I was most impressed by the grilled shrimp that came on the 'Shrimp Ensalada.' They were small Gulf shrimp grilled to smoky perfection. A generous portion of them was sprinkled on a salad of crisp romaine lettuce with fresh pico de gallo salsa--minced tomato, onion, peppers and cilantro--and savory ranch dressing.

Those same shrimp are available in a taco with chopped onion, cilantro and either mild salsa verde or the hotter salsa roja."