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THE FREE LANCE-STAR
cOLONIAL TAVERN, Home to the Irish Brigade serves good fish, chips and fresh Irish draft beer.
Stick to such pub fare and you'll have a fine time in Fredericksburg's newest Irish joint, located in the former Orbit's building.
Veer into the more expensive entrees, and you might leave feeling you got less than you paid for.
Colonial Tavern's owners have spruced up the original train station with fresh green paint, crisp tablecloths and Civil War prints celebrating the famed Irish Brigade. The atmosphere is welcoming and pleasant, but stale smoke still permeates the dining room.
Colonial Tavern servers dress in what our waitress described as 18th-century Irish Colonial fashion, with flowing linen skirts, white shirts and laced bodices. The waitresses all have red locks, creamy skin and freckles, though they said Irish features are not a requirement of employment.
On a recent night, a friendly, seasoned server delivered a black and tan--half Harp and half Guinness--poured perfectly so the stout floated like a dark cloud above the amber lager.
Good beer is one of the reasons to visit Colonial Tavern. It offers Guinness, Harp, Bass, Fred Red, Fredericksburg-brewed Blue and Gray Classic, and Sam Adams on tap ($4 American pint, $5 British pint, add a dollar for Guinness).
The tavern, which opened March 17, has a full bar and a short list of wines served by the glass ($3.50-$6.50) or the bottle ($5-$26).
Order appetizers or simple fare from the main menu to accompany Colonial Tavern's hearty drafts.
Fish and chips ($9 at lunch, $13 at dinner) features a thick filet of cod, battered (not breaded) and fried. Ours came to the table right out of the cooker, and it was so moist, so delicious, so perfect that the thought of it now sets off a craving. Respectable fries (the "chips" in fish and chips) are served alongside.
Another "don't miss" item at Colonial Tavern is the beer-battered mushrooms ($6). Very firm, tiny button mushrooms are dipped in savory batter, fried and served with ranch dressing.
A platter of them looked like fresh beignets sprinkled with powdered sugar. Instead it was golden mushrooms with a dusting of Parmesan.
Fried chicken strips are fresh and tempting. And, yes, you are detecting a theme here--if it's fried, Colonial Tavern probably does a good job with it.
Red-meat lovers might choose a thick, moist hamburger ($7) smoky from the grill. But be advised to stick to such pub fare: On the dinner menu, things don't go as well.
Colonial Tavern's pot roast ($15) is a lot of beef and a few vegetables cooked not only until the meat falls apart, but until it has lost most of its flavor. Two small lamb chops ($19) are equally ho-hum. The tavern is getting a new menu soon, so the lamb chops will be available only on a mixed grill platter; we hope that will up the value. The new menu also will include lighter dishes such as salads and wraps.
A side of grilled vegetables--a buttery mix of broccoli, thick carrot slices, onions and mushrooms--and roasted potatoes bettered the lamb chops.
The tavern's freshly mashed potatoes topped with melted cheddar cheese were the only redeeming feature of a disappointing shepherd's pie ($10, $13). A dull, thick stew of overcooked ground beef contained the merest sprinkling of peas and carrots. And no gravy!
Entrees come with a salad that's easy to skip and homemade soda bread that is almost impossible to. Sweet and moist like a Sally Lunn, it's a good choice with the pub's homemade soups.
A yummy scone, which Colonial Tavern calls a "petticoat patty," is more cinnamon-sugar coffee cake than traditional tea scone. But it costs a shocking $6 and the "fresh Irish whipped cream" the menu touts turns out to be nondairy whipped topping.
Also for $6, the tavern serves a trifle of vanilla pudding and sherry-infused spongecake. Mine contained sliced grapes, one strawberry and more of the dreaded nondairy foam.
While Colonial Tavern might not be up to fine dining, it's on my list for a good dark beer and a simple meal.
To reach NEVA TRENIS: 540/374-5412 ntrenis@freelancestar.com