FALL IS HERE, and a beautiful one it promises to be thanks to all the year's rainfall, which helps provide a colorful and long-lasting autumn foliage display.
However brown or beautiful the foliage is in a given year, the leaves always end up in the same place--on the ground. And they have to be dealt with.
When I was young, many people in the neighborhood would pile their leaves at the curb and burn them. Others would pack them into lawn and garden bags and haul them to the dump.
Now, many localities have ordinances against burning leaves. The regular dumps and landfill space are so precious that people are discouraged from depositing their yard waste there. Some localities are opening special areas for composting, and now accept yard waste.
Another answer is backyard composting. Don't burn, give or throw away those valuable leaves. They can, in a short period of time, become rich, crumbly, black humus--an excellent soil conditioner.
Humus has a number of soil-beneficial qualities. It increases aeration, improves soil structure and water-holding capacity, and encourages the growth of soil-borne microorganisms that help plants in many ways.
If you'd like to produce an ongoing supply of compost, a good idea to build a composting bin using wood or wire or a combination of the two. Many people make two or three adjoining bins to have compost at every stage of decomposition.
Whichever composting method you use, locate it in or near the garden to take advantage of the many nutrients will leach out from under the pile. The type of bin pictured with this article can easily be moved from time to time to gain access to the nutrient-rich soil beneath it.
Creating a compost pile is easy. Start with a layer of fairly coarse material such as twigs or chopped corn stalks. This should be covered with a layer of plant and kitchen refuse, such as leaves, straw, weeds, coffee grounds, crushed egg shells, or garden soil.
Don't use meat wastes, as this will attract all sorts of animals. Over this, add a layer of rich, green material or manure. If you have no manure, a half-cup of 10-10-10 fertilizer or blood meal will do.
Adding a 1-inch layer of garden soil for each 6-inch layer of plant waste will inoculate the compost pile with the microorganisms that eventually produce the humus. Repeat the layers of plant material and nitrogenous material and soil until all the waste material is used up.
Water the pile often enough to keep it moist, but not soaking wet. Soon, the pile should heat up as bacterial fermentation takes place. The pile should also become more compact. In two to three weeks, it should be turned to ensure uniform breakdown.
When the compost is finished, it will be black and crumbly, with a pleasant earthy smell. The heating stage of the composting process will have killed most weed seeds, making it an excellent soil amendment.
We have an illustrated fact sheet on composting available from Virginia Cooperative Extension. If you would like a copy, call your local Extension Office and request one, leaving your name and address, and we'll send one right out.
Fall garden tipsThe first killing frost for the greater Fredericksburg area usually occurs around the third week of October, from the 17th to the 23rd of the month. It's a good idea to have brought in all tender house plants and to start disconnecting and draining garden hoses at night to keep them from freezing.
After a killing frost, roses should be cut back to 18 to 20 inches so they aren't whipped and injured by winter winds. Mound the canes with 6 inches of soil for cold protection. Remove the soil in the spring.
If stored bulbs begin to shrivel, they are too dry. Place them in a container with potting medium, peat moss or sawdust to stop the loss of water.
Be sure to mulch your azaleas, rhododendrons, camellias, and laurel after the ground freezes. They prefer acidic materials like pine needles or oak leaves. Any mixed leaves will do if these are not available.
MAC SAPHIR is an agent in the Virginia Cooperative Extension's Bowling Green office who specializes in crop and soil science. The office is at 111-B Ennis St. Contact him by phone at 804/633-6550; by fax at 804/633-2429, or by e-mail to msaphir@vt.edu.