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Parthenon a cozy place for Greek food
WEEKender restaurant review archive
Nondescript restaurant offers good food, comfortable atmosphere.
Date published: 2/2/2005

By LISA FERREIRA

I explained to several friends recently where the Parthenon -the restaurant, not the Greek temple-is located. They chuckled when they realized what restaurant I was talking about. They thought it amusing that such a modest place should have such a grand name.

I’m thankful for the contradiction. Rather than being cavernous and stony cold, our Fredericksburg Parthenon is compact and comfortable. When I walk in, it feels warm, familiar and snug, like pulling up a cozy comforter.

To start the feast, we ordered Mezedes Tis Oras ($8.95). The appetizer for two included an array of sausage and melt-in-your-mouth meatballs. Each contained a pleasant combination of spices.

Pungent kalamata olives and cubes of appropriately salty feta cheese added to the zest of the dish. Cucumbers, peppers and tomatoes added a refreshing crunch.

The platter was crowned with four triangular spinach pies-mini spanakopita. The phyllo dough casing was delicately wrapped around creamy spinach-packed contents. They were light yet filling bite-sized treats.

A cup of yogurt-based cucumber sauce-tzatziki-provided a cool dip.

The entree I selected, Irene’s Special ($9.25), came with a salad, which was a ho-hum mix of iceberg lettuce topped with a swirl of raw onions, tomato wedges, a heavy dose of herbs and oil and vinegar dressing. I didn’t eat much of it. But I did eat the hunks of buttery garlic bread served with it.

The menu explained that my entree was Athenian-style spaghetti baked with feta cheese. I discovered a healthy helping of plain ol’ pasta noodles curled around a generous amount of gyro meat in a tasty tomato sauce. The gyro meat was tender and there was more than I cared to eat, but I did wish for more feta.

My dining companion opted for a doughy dinner of a meat-and-cheese calzone. She ordered the smallest size-a medium designed to serve two diners for $13.95.

We asked for sausage as the meat to accompany a mostly mozzarella interior. The crust-an entire pizza crust filled up and flipped over to make a giant turnover-was fluffy inside and crisp outside. Baked to a deep golden color, it was scrumptious.

A side of thick tomato sauce was served for dipping.

We sipped water and soda ($1.35) with dinner, but I ordered a cup of coffee (95 cents) with our desserts of baklava ($2.25) and custard pie ($2.95).


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Date published: 2/2/2005



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