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New food column seeks to answer readers' questions

April 20, 2005 1:08 am

ILOVE TO COOK, but I don't pretend to be a food expert. I rely on tried-and-true recipes from cooks who are talented enough to whip up a delicious dish from a half-dozen ingredients and a heaping spoonful of creativity.

I embark on this new column with the intention of helping cooks like me, those who want to perfect their culinary know-how or find answers to food-related questions.

In searching for answers, I'm relying on experts, both local and national, who can shed light on the queries.

The first question involves baking.

Frances C. said she has the worst luck with making meringues for pies

"It will fall to almost nothing and has water between the meringue and the filling," she wrote.

I turned to three local bakers for their tips on dealing with the fluffy egg-white mixture.

Meringues can be tricky, they said, and there are several things that can cause problems.

Joan Hailstalk, owner of Simply Sweet Cake and Candy Supplies in Spotsylvania County, said that the problem may be in beating the egg whites--either under-whipping or overwhipping.

Egg whites should be beaten until they form stiff peaks, she said.

"There's a real fine line that you have to play with," she said. "Meringues can be temperamental."

Egg whites should be room temperature in order to yield more volume. They also should be without the least bit of yolk.

"You want them totally grease-free," she said. "Egg yolks contain fat, so you want completely clean egg whites."

The bowl and beaters need to be grease-free as well.

Her advice is similar to that suggested by baker Michele Howell, who operates Bountiful Harvest "Sweets and Treats" in Stafford County.

Underbeating meringue can contribute to the watery appearance known as weeping. Overbeating can cause the meringue to become dry and make it difficult to spread over the filling.

"We add a little superfine sugar after the soft peak stage to help the meringue set up and retain enough moisture to be more pliable," Howell said.

She also suggested completely covering the pie with the meringue.

"We have found that meringues spread entirely over hot or very warm fillings in a cooled crust help to set up the meringue," she said.

That creates a better seal on the filling and often helps to prevent weeping and shrinkage after baking, she said.

Mary Deatherage, who operates Mary's Cakery and Candy Kitchen in King George County, said that the water problem may be in the baking.

"If there is water under the meringue, it means the meringue is undercooked," she said. "If there are water drops on top of the meringue, it was overcooked."

Meringue pies can be stored for a short time in the refrigerator, but Howell said meringue pies are best eaten fresh. Refrigeration can cause condensation on the meringue when removed from storage. Both the meringue and crust can become soggy from the excessive moisture.

Hailstalk and Deatherage have agreed to share their meringue recipes. Deatherage's recipe is one her mother used.

Pie crust perfection

While we're on the subject of pies, Barbara M. wants to know the key to making a single pie crust to which you add filling.

"Even though I follow the direction on the pie crust box, my pie crust always shrinks smaller than my pie plate," she writes. "What's the secret to making it hold its original shape?"

Hailstalk suggested rolling out the pie crust dough larger than the pie plate.

The crust needs to fit the pan and allow excess for the trim, she said.

She also suggested allowing the crust time to rest for at least 30 minutes in the refrigerator before baking. Poke the crust with fork prongs to let out any trapped air.

Howell also suggested chilling the dough (1 or more hours) prior to baking.

"Keeping the pie shells and filled pies cold to the moment of baking helps them to keep their shape, " she said.

When baking an empty pie shell, she recommended pricking the crust in the bottom and sides, then placing a lightly oiled pie plate the same size on top of it while it bakes. The same effect can be accomplished by lining the inside of the pie shell with parchment paper, a large coffee filter or nonstick foil. Fill the liner with pie weights, dried beans or rice.

Howell suggested the following resources for finding out more about pies: "The Pie and Pastry Bible" by Rose Levy Beranbaum and "Pie" by Ken Haedrich. On the Internet, check out baking911 .com and epicurious.com.

Hailstalk and Deatherage have agreed to share their recipes for meringue. I've also included a single pie crust recipe from baking911.com.

QIs it safe to refreeze leftover cooked meat? Say for example, I cooked a turkey and froze some of the breast meat. Two weeks later, I thawed the meat and used it for a casserole. Can I refreeze the casserole for another dinner?--Dick G.

A"Absolutely!" according to Kathy Bernard, a spokesman with the U.S. Department of Agriculture's Meat and Poultry Hotline (888/MPHotline). Bernard said that you might notice a slight change in texture by refreezing, but it's perfectly safe to eat. She recommends using the refrozen casserole within three to four months.

Pondering a food-related problem? Stumped by a cooking technique? Send your questions to Marty Morrison at mmorrison@freelancestar.com or by mail to The Free Lance-Star, 616 Amelia St., Fredericksburg, Va. 22401.





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