She: When at the beach, I don't head for the sleekly polished, slickly advertised seafood restaurants with multipage menus. No, give me a weather-beaten, ground-hugging, cinder-block shack nestled against a sand dune, a place frequented by locals who know that good seafood does not require a maitre d' and is rarely improved by a froufrou raspberry reduction sauce.

He: Turns out it's right in Fredericksburg. Minus the dune, of course.

For decades, Barefoot Greens was known as a go-to place for carryout crabs and other seafood. Ten years ago, it was purchased by Mary Dean, who expanded both its services and its name. Now dubbed Barefoot Greens Seafood Deli & Restaurant, it retains its charmingly faded aqua paint job, complete with aquatic-themed murals, on its cinder-block exterior.

She: Once inside the entryway, the diner is treated to dinner--or at least a look at it. Display cases contain the day's available selections, which may include fresh crab legs, shrimp, tuna, catfish, crawfish, grouper and salmon.

To the left is the seat-yourself dining room, where comfortable captain's chairs hug a dozen tables laid with chipper red-checked table covers. The walls are decorated with still more shore-motif murals, and the overall effect is genial.

He: An effect that was augmented on a recent evening visit by a highly efficient server with a summery disposition. No doubt her merry efficiency is a God-given talent, but I suspect it may have been boosted by the home-brewed iced tea ($1.50), served unsweetened, which was so crisp and strong and refreshing it deserves special mention here. Jet fuel never tasted so good.

She: Barefoot Greens beer selections emphasize draught, not bottled, brews, and of these, I opted for a sprightly, hopsy Yuengling ($3). Now is a good time to mention that it was served in a plastic cup, as are all the libations at Barefoot Greens, where fancy barware, china and cutlery are not considered of importance.

He: It's all about the seafood. I began with the 1-pound snow crab leg appetizer ($9.99; $8.99 special on this visit). The generous portion afforded leg after leg of deftly steamed, succulent crab and was served with melted butter on the side.