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Pomme, a well-polished apple

July 7, 2005 11:11 am

For THE FREE LANCE-STAR

She: Architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe wrote, "God is in the details," and in this respect, Pomme's decor is heavenly.

When I first looked around, I saw a single flower bud placed so artfully in its vase that its color and attitude reflected those in a Cezanne-esque painting 10 feet away. Archways of aged brick counterpointing walls of creamy pale saffron. Gardenlike green and yellow table linens and dishware. Here and there carefully placed objects d'art with an apple motif--appropriate because "pomme" is "apple" in French.

I thought I'd died and gone to Provence, and I was to discover that the attention to detail applies to far more than the decor.

He: Owner-chef Gerard Gasparini, wife Maryvonne, and son Guillaume opened the well-appointed restaurant in Gordonsville in January. Gerard's impressive credentials include up-through-the-ranks positions at a Paris hotel and a 16-year tenure at the prestigious Baltusrol Golf Club in New Jersey.

She: He even survived a stint at New York City's wildly popular Rainbow Room, for which he deserves a medal. In a sense, he did medal when he was named one of the top French chefs in the world by the Maitres Cuisiniers de France-- a jury of his peers.

He: We arrived at Pomme with a companion on a recent Wednesday evening to find many of the dozen-plus tables already taken, highlighting the potential importance of making reservations. Once seated near the recessed wine racks, where scores of bottles winked in the soft lighting, we found the menu pleasantly uncluttered, suggesting a kitchen that concentrates on singular excellence rather than unnecessary diversity.

She: The wine list also suggests thoughtful choice, and I started with one of the by-the-glass selections, a 2003 Jean-Baptiste Adam Tokay Pinot Gris ($9), an agreeable Alsatian import with subtle notes of citrus. Even more noteworthy was our companion's 2001 St. Francis cabernet ($10). The second glass, that is. The first had breathed to the extent of hyperventilation, and it was replaced in the time it takes to say, "Is it me, or does anyone else think something is off in this wine?"

The quickly supplied replacement folded rich oak into smooth plum, and had an even, satisfying finish.

He: Of the appetizers ($8-$11) ordered, I found the escargot a standout. An earthy and plentiful sauce embraced tender snails and mushrooms, and the promised Pernod undercurrent was subtle, for which I was grateful. Anise flavor can easily hijack an entire dish, but not so in this praiseworthy rendition.

She: I opted for ripe avocado slices on warmed brie, a smooth starter with a lingering nutty note imparted by the thick wedge of rich cheese. Our companion's asparagus appetizer arrived with verdant, crisp-cooked spears nestled into a sleeve of flaky pastry.

An eye for artistry was evident throughout, as the dishes were served with vibrant greenery and a confetti of colorful seasoning. The whole was accompanied by the arrival of thick slices of crusty bread with attractively presented rounds of butter.

He: My scallop and shrimp entree ($28.50), a special that evening, was meltingly tender and grilled to a turn, and our companion's filet of sole St. Germaine ($21) was a wonder of moist, flaky, fish that was breaded as gently as a breeze.

She: My veal ($26) was similarly oh-so-gently breaded, layered with wafer-thin prosciutto, touched with a delicate sauce, and cut with the whisper of a rumor of a fork.

The entrees were accompanied by a serving of flavorful rice topped with a piping of smoothly mashed butternut squash, and the lively combination was crested by a jaunty sprig of fresh watercress.

He: Creme brulee ($8) won out for dessert, and a winner it was, with a flame-touched top revealing a satiny interior. For coffee ($1.95), we repaired to one of the seven flower-surrounded patio tables out back and admired the results of Maryvonne's green thumb.

She: To make sure that the marvel that was our companion's filet of sole was no fluke, I returned for lunch and ordered it. No fluke, all flake.

On this visit I also ordered the homemade sorbet ($8), and when told the myriad flavors available for the choice of three, I put myself in the capable server's hands. What arrived were three sizeable scoops of refreshing apple, strawberry and black currant sorbet cradled in a crisp, lemony bowl-sized wafer. For the final touch, an open-weave artwork of dark and white chocolate struck a note of triumph atop.

He: Last thoughts. The translation of "Pomme" should be "memorable culinary experience."

She: While at lunch, I was amused to overhear a trio of elderly women asking assistant manager Jamie Robinson a question. He smiled and broke the news to them that yes, the chef was married.

Who wouldn't want Chef Gasparini's sophisticated cookery in her own kitchen?

Nancy Dearing Rossbacher and Stephen W. Sylvia publish a Civil War magazine together. She likes to cook. He likes to eat. To reach Rossbacher and Sylvia, e-mail them at editor@nstcivilwar.com.