Chilean wines offer outstanding value for the money

October 19, 2005 1:06 am

ILOVE THIS TIME of year. I start to get Chile. I mean chilly. Or do I?

The wines of Chile are still some of the best values on the market for a number of reasons.

There is a great deal of history in Chilean wine. They're no upstart newcomer. Many Chilean vineyards were planted by Spanish missionaries back in the 16th century. Later, in the 1830s, French vines were planted in Chile.

Over the next 20 years or so, these vines would become more widely planted. Just in time, apparently. The most devastating threat ever to the world wine industry was caused by a small American louse called phylloxera. European (and much later, North American) vineyards were almost relegated to the history books.

The whole story is enough material for a column of its own, but in short, Chile was one of the very few places unaffected by this tragedy. In fact, Chile benefited from the wealth of knowledge and experience many European wine makers brought with them as they sought refuge (and employment).

So, Chile has the history, the know-how and the wonderful climate necessary to make good wine. And for many years it produced vast quantities of healthy wine, much to the envy of the rest of the wine-making world.

Then came a lull. Investment ceased. Politics took its toll as politics is inclined to do. More detail should be sought from your history teacher. My forte is wine, not history.

Without investment funds, equipment became antiquated. A lack of communication between grape growers and wine makers did not help matters.

Fortunately, the late 20th century brought us something other than techno music and manmade fabrics. The advances in technology and communication renewed our interest in cultural diversity. Chile became exotic. New World wines became into vogue. It puts the phrase "something old, something new" in a whole different light.

The wine regions of Chile are still in something of an evolutionary stage. The three main regions of Chile's Central Valley are the Maipo, Rapel and Maule valleys. Further north we have the Limari valley, where irrigation is essential. When we get to the south, we have the experimental Malleco valley, which may or may not survive due to current wine laws.

At this point I feel as if I should name names. Cabernet sauvignon, merlot, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc are widely grown in Chile. This is because of the very heavy French influence already mentioned. But there is another French grape, an obscure variety from Bordeaux, that seems to be finding its home here.

Carmenere, mistakenly harvested for many years in Chile as merlot, is rapidly becoming a distinguished part of Chilean viticultural heritage. Full-bodied, hearty and brambly, it is packed full of flavor; a cost-effective alternative to a Rhone or a beefy Shiraz. Chilean wines will rarely be beaten in the value stakes.

I bet it would go well with chili. Or is that chilly? Or Chile? Hmmm.

SUZANNE GRUMKO, a London native, has worked in the wine industry for 15 years, currently with Total Wine in Central Park. She lives in Spotsylvania County with her husband, John, and seven children. She can be reached by e-mail at hippydotmom@adelphia .net.