For THE FREE LANCE–STAR

She: At first, it seemed all about numbers. To make dinner reservations at Jake & Mike’s, we were to leave our phone number on their recorder, something no self-respecting sneaky restaurant reviewer can do.

Adding to the numbers-driven challenges: Jake & Mike’s Web site claimed they open for dinner at 5 p.m., but their phone recording said 6 p.m.

We arrived at 6 p.m. (their actual opening time), wended our way past the six wrought-iron tables outside, and asked for a table for two in a dining room that offered four barstools, a dozen tables and two booths.

By that time I was counting everything, as though I’d developed a numeric nervous tic. Fortunately, it smoothed out when we were quickly seated at one of the two (there I go again) tables in the front bay windows, from which we could serenely watch the trafficky world of William Street hustle by.

He: Jake & Mike’s, named after co-owner Maurice Lamarche’s children, opened a half-decade ago, its aim to present “unpretentious American cuisine.”

Its décor reflects that casual air with no small amount of color. Walls are painted in shades of butternut squash and cherry, and hung with cheerful paintings. Tabletops are adorned with multicolored woven mats.

She: The wine list contained an impressive array of by-the-bottle selections that ranged from $21 to $75, with an accent on Virginia wines. I opted for a Chilean by-the-glass selection instead, a Moroni cabernet ($6) that was full-bodied and—an important touch—served in a balloon glass large enough to get one’s nose into.

He: As I settled in with an expertly mixed Tanqueray gin and tonic ($7), I perused the menu, which didn’t take long because there were but four appetizers and six dinner offerings.

The decision-making process, however, took awhile. The more our well-informed server embellished on the descriptions of the dishes, the more we were enticed by this one, then that one.

I finally settled on littleneck clams ($9) as an appetizer, which proved an excellent choice.