For THE FREE LANCE–STAR

As a musician I admit an attraction to things musical, so the idea of visiting Chords, a relatively new restaurant in downtown Fredericksburg, had its appeal.

Chords bills itself as a fine-dining restaurant and features live jazz and blues on Thursday, Friday and Saturday beginning at 7 p.m. Our pre-holiday schedule put us there on a Monday, so we missed the live music, but reveled in excellent service and fine food, while admiring the luxurious décor.

In keeping with the black and white of a keyboard or notes on a sheet of music, the tables are covered with black linen, handsome flatware, and unusual-shaped white plates and serving dishes. The candlelight intimacy is captured in the wood paneling, moody eggplant-colored panels and a warm, gold-tone bead board near the booths, which are separated by elegant shawl-like hangings. The decorative “tin” ceiling fits the period of the room, and backlit stained glass adds piquant color.

Our server noted that the restaurant recently hired a new chef with an outstanding reputation, and that his new menu would begin on Dec. 1, a few days after our visit. She wasn’t sure what items would remain from the menu we sampled on our visit, but he was in the kitchen that night.

Guided by her suggestions, I chose Roasted Red Pepper and Blue Tiger Shrimp “Cheesecake,” topped with a merlot sauce and served with fresh toasted baguette slices ($12). She explained that the menu text was misleading—it was less a cheesecake texture than a thick dip.

No blues for me here. The warm shrimp dip—like a thick, cheesy bisque—and the puddle of merlot sauce proved to be an unusual and perfect duet. The sauce did not overpower the flavor of the shrimp.

My Dining Partner ordered smoked oysters (seasonal and market price) for $14. Five oysters, wrapped in prosciutto and topped with smoked Gouda, made their entrance on a riff of tomato basil cream sauce—a persistently good flavor. The oysters’ gentle smoky taste brought me back to reality.

This large room, with its bar, booths, tables and lounge listening area, was smoke-free. Other rooms in Chords, including a downstairs nightclub, are set aside for smokers.

Our server let us set our own tempo for the meal, taking orders when we were ready rather than rushing us to the next course.