By NANCY DEARING ROSSBACHER and STEPHEN W. SYLVIA

For THE FREE LANCE-STAR

She: "Stop." That's what the big red sign commands at the northwest corner of William and Charles streets. Some might think that stop sign stands sentry to keep the downtown Fredericksburg traffic moving safely, but we found an entirely different reason to step on the brakes there.

In fact, if traffic signs offered dining suggestions, this sign would likely read: "Stop. Park. Enter Poppy Hill Tuscan Kitchen."

He: The basement entrance of Poppy Hill is unobtrusive, so much so that some diners have had trouble finding it. In good weather, four sidewalk tables help mark the spot by flanking the stairs.

Down the well-worn concrete steps lies the domain of Chef Scott Mahar, who opened Poppy Hill in December of last year. The irony of a place dubbed "Hill" being below ground was not lost on us, but any suggestion of a dark, dank basement is eradicated by light-lifting white walls and strategically placed splashes of bright artwork.

She: Poppy Hill is on two subterranean tiers, each offering a half-dozen seating areas. The first tier, upon entry, is nearest the kitchen and therefore nearest the greatest source of noise. A few more steps down, a quieter, more intimate six-table seating area can be found.

White linen table covers and napery add elegance and still more basement-defying light. Tables are set with vases of real flowers--a simple touch too often overlooked--as well as tiny salt and pepper shakers so cunningly cute you want to pat them on the head.

He: On a recent weekend evening, we arrived with two dining companions and found all but one table taken. Apparently not everyone has trouble finding Poppy Hill.

Upon being seated and swiftly supplied with wedges of fresh bread and a balsamic dipping sauce, we studied the wide-ranging wine list. Its emphasis is on reds, and most impressive is that so many are offered by the glass as well as the bottle. A Napa Valley-based 2002 Louis Martini cabernet sauvignon (glass $6.50, bottle $33) proved full-bodied and spoke of a bright meld of berries.