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Stop and savor the flavors at Poppy Hill

May 4, 2006 12:50 am

By NANCY DEARING ROSSBACHER and STEPHEN W. SYLVIA

For THE FREE LANCE-STAR

She: "Stop." That's what the big red sign commands at the northwest corner of William and Charles streets. Some might think that stop sign stands sentry to keep the downtown Fredericksburg traffic moving safely, but we found an entirely different reason to step on the brakes there.

In fact, if traffic signs offered dining suggestions, this sign would likely read: "Stop. Park. Enter Poppy Hill Tuscan Kitchen."

He: The basement entrance of Poppy Hill is unobtrusive, so much so that some diners have had trouble finding it. In good weather, four sidewalk tables help mark the spot by flanking the stairs.

Down the well-worn concrete steps lies the domain of Chef Scott Mahar, who opened Poppy Hill in December of last year. The irony of a place dubbed "Hill" being below ground was not lost on us, but any suggestion of a dark, dank basement is eradicated by light-lifting white walls and strategically placed splashes of bright artwork.

She: Poppy Hill is on two subterranean tiers, each offering a half-dozen seating areas. The first tier, upon entry, is nearest the kitchen and therefore nearest the greatest source of noise. A few more steps down, a quieter, more intimate six-table seating area can be found.

White linen table covers and napery add elegance and still more basement-defying light. Tables are set with vases of real flowers--a simple touch too often overlooked--as well as tiny salt and pepper shakers so cunningly cute you want to pat them on the head.

He: On a recent weekend evening, we arrived with two dining companions and found all but one table taken. Apparently not everyone has trouble finding Poppy Hill.

Upon being seated and swiftly supplied with wedges of fresh bread and a balsamic dipping sauce, we studied the wide-ranging wine list. Its emphasis is on reds, and most impressive is that so many are offered by the glass as well as the bottle. A Napa Valley-based 2002 Louis Martini cabernet sauvignon (glass $6.50, bottle $33) proved full-bodied and spoke of a bright meld of berries.

She: Also available are several beers (all $4), and the enjoyable Stella Artois tasted as I'd expected: a mild, slightly malty Euro lager.

Of the appetizers, the mushroom galette ($5) was a standout: an artistic presentation of crisp pastry shell cradling tender, quarter-cut, sauteed button mushrooms with a crest of meltingly smooth Boursin cheese. A special that evening, flavorful fried calamari ($6), was also praiseworthy.

The Tuscan white bean dip ($4.50), served with very crisp crostini, looked as though its lights were on; unfortunately, no one was home. The promised roasted garlic and red peppers in it were so elusive as to seem absent.

He: As Poppy Hill can be considered pricey by some standards, we went at the menu from opposite ends. I selected the most expensive item, a veal chop ($28). A handsomely large, bone-in chop arrived cooked precisely to order, with a boost of crushed-pistachio crust. Along for the ride were perfectly cooked asparagus and garlic-infused mashed potatoes.

She: Whether it's value or flavor the diner is going for, the least expensive entrees, the pastas ($11.95), proved nothing short of outstanding. Those bland noodles found in boxes at grocery stores? Fuggedaboudit. Chef Mahar's fresh pastas have lively spring.

In one dish, the spaghettini were ribbons wrapped around a gifted version of meat-rich bolognese sauce. Meatballs on the side ($3) were large, mild and clearly handmade. The vegetable lasagna's gently cooked pasta was layered with roasted zucchini, tomatoes, mushrooms, onion and carrots, along with an abundance of ricotta and parmesan cheese.

He: One of our companions ordered the daily seafood special, pan-seared fresh trout ($18.95). Two planks of fresh, boneless (well, one tiny bone) trout nestled atop a risotto enlivened by balsamic vinegar. The tender-crisp asparagus made an appearance on this attractively presented plate, as well.

She: Fresh coffee ($1.50) and desserts (all $4) ensued, and Poppy Hill's confections would test the will of any calorie counter. A large wedge of lemon cheesecake bore colorful blueberry compote on its creamy surface; its crust seemed to whisper softly of ginger.

He: The apple crêpes were a homey blend of soft pastry folded around the rich, comforting flavors of apple, rum, butter, cream cheese and ricotta. The cannoli's filling, dotted with chocolate chips, overflowed from a crisp shell, and it was drizzled with chocolate sauce.

Last thoughts. Creative dishes presented with a flair, and far more affordable than one might think. Our self-indulgent repast came to an average of $38 per person.

She: The sign out front says, "Stop." It's excellent advice.

Nancy Dearing Rossbacher and Stephen W. Sylvia publish a Civil War magazine together. She likes to cook. He likes to eat. To reach Rossbacher and Sylvia, e-mail them at
Email: editor@nstcivilwar.com. Or call 540/374-5448 with comments about today's restaurant review.