TOP: Pelicans soar near the Hatteras-Ocracoke ferry. BOTTOM: Ocracoke Lighthouse continues to stand the test of time. View More Images from this story Visit the Photo Place

Pirates & pelicans Play with the exotic on North Carolina shores Story and photographs by Ingrid Sbacchi Bairstow for the Free Lance-Star T

Follow Blackbeard's footsteps to the North Carolina beaches

Date published: 6/10/2006

HE PELICAN SURVEYS the waters, circling lower, closer, swooping, and up again, fish in beak. Graceful despite the awkward silhouette, the bird bids an exotic welcome to the southern North Carolina shores, where pelicans breed and live.

North Carolina also boasts another exotic resident--Blackbeard, the most fearsome pirate of all time. For a few years in the early 18th century, the extremely tall, frightening man sought fortune less than a day's journey from Fredericksburg, along the coast and islands of North Carolina.

Visitors intrigued by this pirate and the lure of the pelican's peaceful presence can easily enjoy a short or long trip to the beautiful coastal areas to soak up Blackbeard's legend.

A definite stop should be Beaufort, a small fishing town at the southern end of Cape Hatteras National Seashore, where there are more Blackbeard attractions, both mythical and factual, than any other place in North Carolina.

In 1996, the shipwreck of Blackbeard's flagship Queen Anne's Revenge was discovered off the coast of Beaufort, and artifacts recovered from the wreck are displayed at the local museum. This discovery reveals more about the life and exploits of Blackbeard than any legend.

Surrounding pirate attractions are quaint towns, miles of sand, and inlets for fishing, canoeing, kayaking and swimming.

A "pirate-theme" vacation with the family may provide answers about the mysterious lives of pirates as well as leave ample time for relaxing on the beach.

Consider a chronological itinerary to the historic towns of Beaufort and Bath, where Blackbeard is said to have lived, and Ocracoke Island, where Blackbeard literally lost his head.

Who was Blackbeard?

Very little is known about the man called Blackbeard. No one knows for sure who he was or where he came from, although most historians believe Blackbeard was probably born in England around the year 1690 and went by the name Edward Teach, or Thatch.

Part of the fun in this type of trip is to piece together the bits of fact and legend and distinguish between the two.

According to history presented by the North Carolina Maritime Museum in Beaufort, Blackbeard worked hard at establishing a devilish image. There is no evidence that he killed anyone who was not trying to kill him.

Background reading For serious Blackbeard buffs, "Blackbeard the Pirate" by Robert E. Lee is the definitive tome. Even though it was originally published in 1974, it is in its 14th printing. It is often referred to in other books about pirates and Blackbeard. Full of details and notes and fairly easy to read, it will be the perfect companion before, during and after your pirate voyage to North Carolina. Contact your local library or bookstore. 1690 Probably born in England before 1690 Real name thought to be Edward Teach or Thatch 1701-13 Historians believe Edward Teach became a sailor during the War of Spanish Succession when England's Queen Anne hired privateers to plunder French and Spanish ships. Some say Teach turned to piracy after the war because he was out of work. 1716 Arrived in the Bahamas, a safe haven for pirates. Joined the crew of pirate Benjamin Hornigold and by 1717 was commanding his own sloop. This is when he grew his beard long, braided it and tied it with ribbons. Legend claims he would sometimes insert slow-burning cords under his hat, creating a terrifying image. He took on the name "Blackbeard." 1717 Hornigold and Blackbeard take a French ship, then known as La Concorde, near Martinique. Hornigold gave Blackbeard the ship and returned to England for a royal pardon. Blackbeard renamed the ship Queen Anne's Revenge, and it became his flagship. Spring 1718 Blackbeard commanded four ships and over 300 pirate crew members. May 1718 Blackbeard blockaded the port of Charleston, S.C. He blocked the harbor and gained control of many ships. After a week, he headed up the North Carolina coast where the Queen Anne's Revenge was lost on a sandbar off Beaufort Inlet. Some historians believe he deliberately ran his flagship aground to reduce the number of crew members and present a smaller target for his pursuers. Summer 1718 Blackbeard applied for pardon to the North Carolina governor, Charles Eden, in Bath. Eden granted the pardon. Blackbeard is believed to have married a woman from Bath, Mary Ormond. Historians believe she was his 14th wife. Blackbeard continued the life of a pirate. November 1718 The royal Colonial lieutenant governor of Virginia, Alexander Spotswood, decided to do something about the pirates. Spotswood commissioned two sloops to hunt Blackbeard. Commanded by Lt. Robert Maynard, the crews found Blackbeard in the waters of Ocracoke Inlet. In a bloody battle, Blackbeard was killed. Maynard ordered Blackbeard's head hung from the bowsprit of the boat. Beaufort Beaufort Ghost Walk: top attraction in the area. Perfect after-dinner walk through a historic town full of haunted tales. Starts every night at dusk. Tour lasts about an hour. Adults, $10; kids under 12, $8. Reservations required. 252/342-0715; tourbeaufort.com. The Legend of Blackbeard Tour: Blackbeard is the focus of this guided tour through the historic district of Beaufort. You'll see where Blackbeard lived and walk the same streets as the famed buccaneer. Spend time exploring Beaufort's stunning 300-year-old cemetery. Reservations required. 252/342-0715; tourbeaufort.com. Free pirate tattoos for the kids. Treasure Hunt cruises: Search for buried treasures with a pirate on a deserted island. Children receive a treasure map and their own treasure chest to take home. Great for ages 4-12. Reservations required. $15 per person. Call 866/230-BOAT. Diamond City Cruises Mystery Tours on the Beaufort waterfront: offer sightseeing cruises on the Beaufort Inlet. See Fort Macon, historic homes, Blackbeard's house, wild ponies, dolphins and birds. April-October. "Authentic pirate ship attacks daily!" For reservations, call 866/230-BOAT. North Carolina Maritime Museum displays artifacts from Blackbeard's flagship, Queen Anne's Revenge. The museum also interprets all aspects of the state's maritime heritage. Located on Front Street. Free. 252/728-7317 or e-mail mari time@ncmail.net for more information. PLACES TO STAY: Beaufort Inn: 101 Ann St. 252-728-2600, 800/726-0321. Breakfast, whirlpool spa, waterfront. beaufort-inn.com Captain's Quarters Bed & Biscuit Inn. 315 Ann St. 800/659- 7111. Carteret County Home Bed & Breakfast. 299 Highway 101, 252/728-4611. Breakfast, pets. carteretcountyhomeb-b.com. The Cedars Inn. 305 Front St. 252/728-7036. Breakfast, fireplace. cedarsinn.com. Cousins Bed & Breakfast. 303 Turner St., 877/464-7487. Breakfast. cousinsbedandbreakfast .com. Delamar Inn Bed & Breakfast. 117 Turner St. 800/349-5823. Breakfast. bbonline.com/nc/ delamarinn. Elizabeth Inn. 307 Front St. 252/728-3861. Inlet Inn & Conference Center, 601 Front St. 800/554-5466. Breakfast, refrigerator, fireplace, waterfront. inlet-inn.com. Pecan Tree Inn. 116 Queen St. 252/728-6733. Breakfast, Jacuzzi. pecantree.com Coastal Riverside Campground. 216 Clark Lane. 252/728-5155. In nearby Morehead City, less expensive hotels are available including: Comfort Inn, Econo Lodge, Edgewater Motel, Hampton Inn and Holiday Inn Express & Suites. For more information, contact the Crystal Coast Tourism Authority, 800/786-6962. sunnync .com. Bath THINGS TO SEE Edward Teach marker, South Main Street Bath also performs a summer play: "Blackbeard: Knight of the Black Flag." June 29-Aug. 19. Thursday, Friday, Saturday, 8:45 p.m. Ormond Amphitheatre, on State Route 92, two miles west of Bath. Tickets $16 adult, $10 child. Call 252-923-4171 for tickets or order online: ormond amphitheatre.com See historic restored buildings: 1734 St. Thomas Church, 1751 Palmer-Marsh House, 1790 Van Der Veer House, 1830 Bonner House. Guided tours available at the Historic Bath visitors center located in the heart of Bath on Carteret Street. Open April-October, Monday-Saturday 9-5; Sunday 1-5 November-March. Tuesday-Saturday, 10-4; Closed Mondays and winter holidays. Call 919/923-3971 for more information. PLACES TO STAY The Inn on Bath Creek, On historic Main Street in North Carolina's oldest town 116 S. Main St. 252/923-9751; innon bathcreek.com Bath Harbor Marina & Motel, 101 Carteret St., 252/923-5711, bathharbor.com For more detailed information, contact 800/999-3857 or orginal washington.com. Ocracoke THINGS TO SEE Ocracoke Lighthouse, built in 1823, is the oldest beacon still operating in North Carolina. 888/493-3826. hydecounty.org. Teach's Hole: Blackbeard Exhibit and pirate specialty shop. 252/928-1718 Places to stay: Stay: Blackbeard's Lodge: Ocracoke's oldest and most illustrious hotel; 37 affordable rooms and apartments, game room, heated pool, bicycles and more. Great on- and off-season rates. Breakfast off season. For info: 252/928-3421. Reservations 800/892-5314. blackbeards lodge.com. There are more than a dozen hotels and motels in addition to half a dozen bed and breakfasts. Cottages are also available. Contact Ocracoke Civic and Business Association 252/928-6711 or ocracokevillage.com. For more information on what to see and what to do in Ocracoke, contact Hyde County Chamber of Commerce, 888/493-3826. hyde county.org Ferry schedule from mainland North Carolina to Ocracoke: 800/BY-FERRY Departures from Swan Quarter to Ocracoke Island: 2 hours and 45 minutes; toll ferry. Cedar Island to Ocracoke: 2 hours and 15 minutes; toll ferry Hatteras-Ocracoke Ferry: 40 minutes; free SURROUNDING AREAS: If you are looking for more than pirates, the area where Blackbeard once lived is surrounded by lots of things to do--beach, fishing, boating and small towns with quaint shops. Emerald Isle, Atlantic Beach, Fort Macon, New Bern are all within an hour from Beaufort. Check out visitnc.com for more information.

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Date published: 6/10/2006