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Beware of bugs that bite

August 11, 2006 12:50 am

COMMON INSECTS to avoid at this time of year are yellow jackets and the other solitary and social wasps. They usually hang out around eaves and windowsills of homes and sheds.

But there are other, less common insects in the garden to avoid, as well, including wheel bugs and stinging caterpillars.

The wheel bug is very unusual-looking. From the side it looks as though it has a large watch cog imbedded in its back. Wheel bugs have strong, piercing mouth parts and can deliver a painful bite to the unsuspecting person who handles them.

Wheel bugs do not seek out people to bite, but are content to roam the garden ecosystem searching for their insect prey. For this reason they should be left alone, as they are very efficient pest killers.

Stinging caterpillars can deliver a very nasty "bite" when handled or brushed. These insects have special hairs on their body that help them deal with predators. If these hairs penetrate the skin of a curious handler and break off, an irritating fluid is released. This results in an itching, burning feeling that lasts for about two hours.

Most stinging caterpillars are black and white, with long, droopy hairs. There is also a smooth one that is green and white. It has a distinctive saddle-like marking on its back, and for this reason is called the saddleback caterpillar. These insects are making their appearance now--as are the more common wooly bear caterpillars--and should be avoided.

Yellow jackets are another pest to avoid. The best way to do that is through good sanitation. They seek protein and sweets. Keep trash cans well-covered, and clean up old fruit or other sources of food.

Fall bulb planting

This time of year usually finds large home and garden stores offering some great bargains on bulbs for the fall planting season. I have seen some wonderful assortments of bulbs for less than 15 cents apiece. When garden shops are selling the same Dutch bulbs for over 30 cents apiece, this is the time to buy.

Once you get them home, a little preparation will bring you a colorful spring garden. Good drainage is key. If your soil is high in clay, mix in a little organic matter such as compost or peat moss to help it drain better.

After the bed is prepared, the next step is to get the bulbs into the ground. Many people use a planting spade or a garden trowel.

It is not necessary to dig the dirt completely out of the hole. If you push the trowel deep into the ground with the curved side facing your body, it is possible to open up a pocket of soil by pulling the handle toward you. The bulb may then be put into the hole with the pointed end up. Remove the trowel, and firm the soil down.

There are commercially made bulb planters that are available at garden centers. They pull out a neat cone of soil at the proper depth for the bulb.

However you dig the holes, there are a few rules of thumb you should follow to get them to the proper depth. First, the bulbs should be planted at four times their diameter. This means that large bulbs, such as tulip, narcissus and hyacinth, should be planted about 8 inches deep and 3 to 10 inches apart. Smaller bulbs (crocus, grape hyacinth) should be planted 5 inches deep and 1 to 2 inches apart.

A local gardener has another bit of advice. He has had some trouble with the long-term vitality of tulips, and attributes it to the formation of "bulblets" around tulip bulbs that are planted too shallow. If you have had this problem plant the tulips a little deeper--10 to 12 inches.

Also remember to fertilize tulips in the fall to give them good stores going into winter. It's also a good idea to keep them well mulched after planting and throughout their productive lives.

Bulbs should be planted before the first hard frost, but they can be planted into December if the ground isn't frozen. Some gardeners cover the areas where they want to plant with boards or plywood to keep the ground workable until they get to it.

Cure pumpkins and butternut and Hubbard squash at 85 degrees for 10 days immediately after harvest. After that, keep them in a dry place at 55 to 60 degrees. Too much chilling or warming will cause them to break down.

Lawns should be fertilized in split applications in the fall. September, October and November are the best months for application.

Check grapevines for mummified grapes. This is due to black rot. Pick and dispose of the shriveled grapes. Do not put them in the compost, as they spread disease.

Order peony roots now for planting in September. Plant about a month before the average first frost date (Oct. 17-20). All the plants should be set out before the second week of October. Mulch plants heavily if they are planted late.