Autumn is all about the garden
Fall lawn and landscape care
Date published: 10/6/2006
FALL IS THE perfect time for many beneficial lawn and landscaping activities--planting new trees and shrubs, maintaining existing plantings, controlling the broadleaf weeds in our lawns, and of course, fall lawn fertilization.
When you plant a new tree or shrub, the depth of the planting hole should let the top of the root ball be even with or slightly above the surrounding soil. In poorly drained soils you may want a shallower hole and have the top of the root ball 2 inches higher than the ground level, covering the root-ball surface with 2 inches of mulch. Planting holes should be 2 to 3 times wider than the root ball to encourage root growth out and away from the root ball.
Center the plant in the hole and backfill with the unamended soil that came from the hole. Don't amend the soil with peat moss or organic material, as this changes the soil composition and causes problems with water movement and root growth among the root ball, planting hole, and surrounding soil. A modest amount of fertilizer can be used at planting time. Too much can dry out the plant's roots.
Most of the trees and shrubs purchased at local garden centers will be in plastic containers or balled and burlapped--B&B. If the wrapping material is treated burlap or synthetic, it is not biodegradable. After placing B&B plants in the hole, remove any rope lacing and pinning nails, then cut away or drop any wrapping materials to the bottom of the hole. Remove the top 8-10 inches of a wire basket to prevent root girdling and prevent cultivating equipment from getting caught in the wire loops. Plants should be removed from plastic containers before they are placed in the planting hole.
Roots that circle around the root ball's exterior should be cut vertically along the root ball in a few places to prevent the girdling of its own root system. A well-disbursed root system helps keep plants anchored and aids in nutrient and water intake.
Date published: 10/6/2006
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