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Make fish a part of your diet

October 29, 2006 12:50 am

SEAFOOD IS as good for you as ever. Lots of research shows that eating fish cuts the risk of heart disease and strokes, and special fats in fish are good for brain development. But many people have worried about contamination, because some fish is polluted by chemicals such as mercury, PCBs and dioxins.

In the past, government agencies gave conflicting advice over how much fish to eat, especially for pregnant women and children. The American Heart Association recommended oily fish, while some environmental groups advised avoiding certain species altogether due to concerns about cancer and brain development.

This month, though, a pair of scientists at Harvard cleared the air, stating that the risks from pollutants in seafood are far outweighed by fish's heart-protecting effects.

The scientists reviewed data from more than 200 studies, and they calculated risks versus benefits of eating seafood. They figured that if 100,000 people ate lots of seafood every day, 24 extra people might die from cancer, but a whopping 7,125 fewer people would die of heart disease. Those are pretty good odds.

Most people should eat fish once or twice a week to protect their hearts, the scientists wrote in the Journal of the American Medical Association. A government agency, the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, echoed the researchers.

Both say even the most vulnerable people--meaning women who are pregnant, nursing or may become pregnant, and children under age 12--can safely consume 12 ounces of fish per week. That includes 6 ounces of white canned tuna, plus other fish.

They recommend avoiding the four most contaminated species: shark, swordfish, tilefish and king mackerel.

It's best to get a variety of seafood, which should limit exposure to chemicals. Also, freshwater fish may have more pollutants, so people should check regional advisories if they go fishing or buy local fish. You can check the list of state fish advisories online at epa.gov/waterscience/fish/states.htm.

For the Rappahannock River, the Virginia Department of Health recommends limiting to two meals a month the following fish: American eel, blue catfish, carp, channel catfish, gizzard shad, croaker and striped bass.

Fish have special omega-3 fats, called EPA and DHA. The special fats protect the heart and may help prevent depression and dementia, as well.

Oily fish such as salmon, herring, sardines and anchovies are rich in healthy fats, more so than leaner, white-fleshed fish.

Consuming 250 milligrams total of EPA and DHA per day is enough to protect the heart, the Harvard scientists say. You can get that much EPA and DHA by eating any of these popular types of seafood each week:

6 ounces of wild Alaskan salmon

about 24 ounces of canned light tuna (that's four 6-ounce cans)

about 20 ounces of shrimp.

Other fishes have EPA and DHA, as well. Canned wild pink salmon is the least-expensive buy for the most EPA and DHA, working out to about 63 cents a week, according to the report.

Many people have never tried canned salmon, but you can use it similarly to tuna. I like to add a little mayo and lemon pepper to make a tasty sandwich filling.

The risks of contaminated fish are scary: brain damage or even death from poisoning by mercury, PCBs and dioxins. However, most seafood has only small amounts of these contaminants, and the benefits outweigh the risks, the Harvard scientists say.

To put the risks in perspective, there are also PCBs and dioxins in red meat, chicken, milk, butter and even in smaller amounts in vegetables. We can't stop eating everything!

You can lower your risks by avoiding the most contaminated fish (shark, swordfish, etc.). And you can reduce PCBs by 12 to 40 percent by trimming the belly and back fat from fish during filleting, and by not eating the skin.

If you want to avoid even moderate contamination, check out the Environmental Defense Fund's Web site at oceansalive.org.

The group recommends seven fish that are high in heart-healthy fats and low in environmental contaminants, and are raised or caught in environmentally friendly ways. These are: wild salmon from Alaska (fresh, frozen and canned), Atlantic mackerel and herring, sardines, sablefish, anchovies and farmed oysters.

Longer lists are available online or by calling their headquarters in Washington at 202/387-3500. The group's guidelines came out before the Harvard study; no word yet if they will change.

I recommend eating seafood twice a week, trying out different kinds of fish but avoiding the four fish risky for moms-to-be and small children. Always trim the skin from fish.

I usually bake, broil or grill seafood rather than fry it, not just to be healthy but also to save time. Most individual fish fillets cook in only 15 minutes in the broiler at 500 degrees, and need only easy seasoning such as a squirt of fresh lemon juice or a sprinkle of garlic or basil.

JENNIFER MOTL is a registered dietitian. Formerly of Fredericksburg, she now lives in Wisconsin.