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Elegance reigns at South Vietnam

November 30, 2006 12:50 am

By LINDA SALISBURY

For THE FREE LANCE-STAR

We have yet to be disappointed with our dining experiences at ethnic restaurants in the Fredericksburg area. We found the South Vietnam House in Central Park to be another fine place to eat.

The storefront near Total Wine has large white statues and fountains in the window. Inside, there are dark wooden tables, faux palm trees and Vietnamese art.

We've eaten at a couple of other Vietnamese restaurants and discovered that there are subtle differences to the flavor of the staple soup, called pho, and the types of food offered. That makes our experiences less of a comparison of restaurants and more a discovery of new foods to enjoy.

Take the spring rolls. We've sampled a variety of Vietnamese spring rolls at various Asian restaurants. South Vietnam House offered three kinds, one of which was served as part of No. 14 (four kinds of appetizers for $6.95). I decided to try this plate to make the most of my pre-entree experience.

Three of the four appetizers involved skewers--one each of chicken, beef and pork, marinated in a delicate sauce and coated with crushed peanuts. The fourth was one of the types of spring rolls, with a crispy exterior stuffed with what tasted like finely ground sausage. The large platter included rice vermicelli, bean sprouts and shredded carrots for color.

My Dining Partner ordered No. 12, Crispy Fried Squid ($6.95). The menu said there would be eight pieces, but he counted nine. The tender squid was fried in a rice- flour batter, for an unusual look and taste. He was impressed.

Although we had our eyes on the entrees, we knew we had to sample the pho. Fortunately, it came in small ($5.50), large ($6.50) and extra large ($7.50) portions, with "small" really being quite large. We both ordered small.

I selected No. 24, a chicken noodle soup with white meat, and MDP ordered No. 23, Combination Beef Noodle Soup. The combination included eye round steak, well-done flank and brisket, soft tendon and bible tripe. The pho is served with wedges of lime, bean sprouts and jalapeño pepper, plus fresh basil--all added to taste.

MDP liked the flavor of this location's pho, which he said had a clove-like seasoning in it. The thin chicken medallions were plentiful, as was the rice vermicelli.

In addition to the traditional pho, the menu included several wonton options.

With a menu that offered 110 items (including dessert and drinks), it did take some time to make our entree selections.

There were clay-pot rice dishes that came with beef, Chinese sausage, seafood or chicken. Steamed rice was available with curry or lemongrass and various meats or seafoods. We studied the egg- or rice-noodle entrees and those based on the rice vermicelli, and the special dishes that included salmon or deep-fried quail.

Our server was partial to No. 65, Shaky Beef ($12.95), but I decided to order No. 66--the BBQ Honey Orange Duck ($14). The duck was well-rendered and served in thin, somewhat crispy slices. I liked the light sauce--the honey, orange and barbecue flavorings were evident. My entree was served with rice, asparagus and slices of cucumber.

Did I mention the chopsticks? Normally we stick to traditional American forks and spoons, but I was so enchanted by the beautiful chopsticks carved out of coconuts that I allowed my silverware to disappear with the appetizer plates. That left me trying to eat pho and cut my duck with chopsticks. I managed, but it was not a pretty sight.

MDP, on the other hand, admired the chopsticks but held on to his fork and spoon. He ordered No. 50, Pork Crispy Fried Egg Noodle ($10.95). Talk about plate presentation! His meal was served on what looked like a bird's nest of curly, crispy noodles. The pieces of pork were tender. They were sauteed with mushrooms, savory-style cabbage, broccoli and gravy that nearly melted the tender noodles so that they dissolved in the mouth.

We decided that we would skip dessert, a choice of vanilla, mocha or strawberry ice cream ($2.25) or Fried Banana with Ice Cream ($5.95). We were beyond full and had take-home boxes at the ready.

The elegant meals, at almost unbeatable prices, put this restaurant on our "return" list.

Linda Salisbury is the author of seven books, including a children's series. E-mail her at
Email: lgsalisbury@gmail.com. Or call 540/374-5448 with comments about today's review.