Return to story

Tasteful tradition at Robinson's

January 25, 2007 12:50 am

By LINDA SALISBURY

For THE FREE LANCE-STAR

Thomas Robertson received his license for a tavern in Locust Grove because he was known as a man of "good character, not addicted to drink, racing or gaming and being of opinion that he will keep an orderly and useful house of entertainment."

Robinson's Tavern and Grill, at the intersection of State Routes 20 and 611, skillfully replaces the 1814 structure that served as a stop for stagecoaches and was near the site of Civil War conflicts. Walking through the door in a large section of strip mall is like stepping through the looking glass and traveling back in time. Robertson (also spelled Robinson) would be pleased that the present tavern continues the tradition of hospitality and good food, and has entertainment.

When My Dining Partner and I scouted out the location before our visit, he poked his head in and said it was a more elegant setting than we had envisioned in a shopping center. He suggested that we make reservations, which turned out to be a good idea. The place was packed! We were seated near the gas fireplace (made of bricks from the old tavern), with an oil painting of the early structure above it.

We were immediately impressed by the gracious hostess and with our server, Chantelle.

The appetizer selection was limited to four choices--a good thing because all were tempting. I decided on the Seared Ahi Tuna ($9.99). The seven generous slices, arranged in a pinwheel design, were topped with fresh ginger and tickled by a sauce that included head-clearing wasabi.

Before MDP could order his appetizer we had the Great Calamari Discussion. MDP has been building his case for eating calamari since I told him at the last restaurant we reviewed that he had to order something else for variety. His point is that calamari is on many menus because people like it, and therefore it makes sense to let readers know when it is very good and when it's not. He said, however, that if I insisted, he would order the fried oysters, but

I relented. Calamari ($8.99) it was. He gave the platter an 8.5 out of 10. His appetizer included two entire squid cut into rounds, plus bunches of tentacles, nicely fried and tender. The marinara sauce was a bit bland, but Chantelle brought fresh horseradish to enhance its flavor. I have never seen such a large portion of calamari as an appetizer!

The entrees--steak, pasta, chicken, fish and gnocchi--were served with "starch" and soup or salad. MDP had a cup of onion soup with his entree, the 14-ounce New York Strip Steak ($17.99), and ordered one of his favorite salads, a wedge of lettuce ($7.99). The large wedge was adorned with bits of tomato and bacon, plus creamy blue cheese dressing and thick crumbles of blue cheese. It was lovely to look at and even better to eat.

The onion soup had a cheesy crust but lacked strong onion flavor or much evidence of onions in the broth. MDP was pleased overall with the steak, which was cooked as ordered (rare).

Because of an unanticipated crowd, the kitchen had run out of baked potatoes and mashed sweet potatoes, but we both found the substituted mashed red-skinned potatoes satisfying. The sauteed zucchini and yellow squash with mushrooms were slightly undercooked and had an oily taste, but they were attractive on the plate.

My house salad was fresh and garnished with half-moons of cucumbers, and grape tomatoes. Happily, the blue cheese dressing had unexpected lumps, like finding a cat under the covers.

I ordered Grilled Salmon ($16.99). It was served with sauteed pearl onions, grilled baby tomatoes and a citrus cream sauce. The salmon seemed a tad overcooked, but the blanket of cream sauce applied adequate moisture and the grilled baby vegetables were treats.

We appreciated the fact that the entrees were hot when they arrived at the table, as were the plates. Too often we have had hot meals served on cold plates, and cold salads presented on hot ones.

As our leisurely meal wound down, we inquired about desserts ($3.99). Chantelle told us that there often are homemade pies and other choices, but this evening the options were not made by Robinson's. The cheesecake and other cakes sounded good, but we decided to forgo the extra calories.

Thomas Robertson could not have foreseen the entertainment: A live band that was setting up as we were leaving. However, our "stagecoach" awaited in the parking lot.

The restaurant's prices are reasonable and its food quite good, and our service was super. And, as evidenced by the crowd waiting to hear the band, Robinson's continues to provide "an orderly and useful house of entertainment."

Linda Salisbury is the author of seven books, including a children's series. E-mail her at
Email: lgsalisbury@gmail.com. Or call 540/374-5448 with comments about today's review.