By NANCY DEARING ROSSBACHER and STEPHEN W. SYLVIA

FOR THE FREE LANCE-STAR

She:

First, a correction. In our last review, that of the commendable Bangkok Cafe, two crucial letters--an "i" and an "n"--mysteriously scampered off our keyboard. Bangkok Cafe is

in

expensive, not expensive.

We've successfully corralled the missing letters in time for this review.

He:

We'll be needing them. Not only is the food at Smyrna Mediterranean Cuisine & Cafe inexpensive, the layout is inventive. On one side of the room are several tables and a counter for on-site dining. Opposite is a small grocery offering imported foodstuffs.

She:

High-energy owners Eyup and Nurcan Izler have melded their Greek and Turkish backgrounds with the spirit of an all-American mom-and- pop place. Assuming, that is, that mom and pop could make a puff of spanakopita ($3.49) that dissolves on the tongue into an amiable marriage of spinach and feta cheese, or could whip up a cooling, minty tzatziki sauce to go with olive-oil drizzled, rice-stuffed grape leaves (five for $2).

He:

A recent order of moussaka ($7.99 slice) was full-on comfort food, Mediterranean style, with creamy mashed potatoes topping mildly seasoned ground beef and tender eggplant. Diners can order it platter-style, paired with a crisp lettuce, tomato, onion and feta cheese salad.

She:

The oven-baked meatballs (16 ounces, $5.99; 32 ounces, $10.99) were bathed in a rich tomato sauce with chunks of potato--generous, filling and flavorful.

But it was the dips, attractively hedged with fresh pita wedges and greenery, that most caught my attention. The artichoke dip ($4.49), emboldened with spinach and parmesan, was top-notch; the carrot dip ($3.99), a happy surprise.

The addictive after-dinner Turkish coffee ($2.49) was a study in contrast: delicate porcelain cups held a brew that could win an arm-wrestling match.

He:

Smyrna also caters to the takeout trade, and recent to-go orders were packed with laudable care. Dishes are made daily, and, as the menu notes, it's wise to check on the availability of certain items.

She:

Most of the current offerings can be viewed in the refrigerated case near the front door. A companion and I had to fend off the urge to graze through every tier of it.

He:

Last thoughts. Health-conscious, vegetarian friendly Smyrna is an "in."

She:

Thank goodness we got those letters back.

Nancy Dearing Rossbacher and Stephen W. Sylvia publish a Civil War magazine together. She likes to cook. He likes to eat. To reach Rossbacher and Sylvia, e-mail them at editor@nstcivil war.com. Or call 540/374-5448 with comments about today's restaurant review.