Special spuds: Whole latke love
columnist tries hand at potato latkes
Date published: 12/12/2007
By Kurt Rabin
FOR 30 YEARS my mom never said "hello" to me.
Instead, when I'd visit, she'd say, "Have you eaten?"
She'd been raised in the Bronx, N.Y., where the greeting could be taken as a welcome or as an accusation.
"There are cold cuts in the fridge," she'd say, regardless of your answer. "Or you could make yourself some lox and a bagel."
Besides those options, you could always choose a fresh fruit salad with seasonal berries or the Jewish soul-food staples she and my dad relished: kosher dills, chopped liver, pickled herring, gefilte fish or--forever her fallback--frozen potato pancakes (aka latkes).
In some parts of the country corn may be king, but in my parents' household the potato reigned supreme.
As kids we enjoyed potato chips, potato sticks, potato puffs (Tater Tots), potatoes au gratin, scalloped potatoes and crinkle-cut french-fried potatoes, not to mention the mashed potatoes that came with Swanson TV-dinners. They tasted metallic, in an endearing kind of way.
And, of course, there were those omnipresent, onion-y potato latkes. An integral part of Hanukkah festivities, in our home they were eaten all year long, breakfast, lunch or dinner, as a side or a main, and always heaped with Mott's applesauce.
Another thing: My mom never called her children by name. For example, my siblings, Kenneth and Karla, were "your brother" and "your sister," as in "your brother finished the brisket" or "your sister ate the last of the babka."
My mom passed away a little over a year ago, two days shy of her 74th birthday. She died at her Rockville, Md., home after a short illness, just as Thanksgiving Day 2006 was dawning.
"Thanksgiving will never be the same," I thought to myself, before it hit me: "Life itself will never be the same."
Thanksgiving was my mom's day to shine. My dad carved the turkey, my mom did everything else--from fixing a Jade-ite mixing bowl full of steaming mashed potatoes to sending everyone off with armfuls of leftovers.
| POTATO PANCAKES
Prep time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 20 minutes Makes 4 servings (about 24 small pancakes)
2 large eggs 3 cups grated, drained all-purpose potatoes cup grated onion 1 teaspoon salt, more to taste teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 to 4 tablespoons matzo meal, or as needed Canola oil, for frying Applesauce and sour cream for serving (optional)
Procedure: In a large mixing bowl, beat eggs lightly. Add potatoes, onion, salt and pepper, and mix well. Stir in 2 tablespoons matzo meal, and let it sit about 30 seconds to absorb moisture in batter. If necessary add more to make a thick, wet batter that is neither watery nor dry.
Place a large skillet over medium heat, and add 2 tablespoons oil. When oil is hot drop in heaping cup (about 2 tablespoons) of batter, flattening them gently to make thick pancakes. When bottoms have browned, after 2 to 3 minutes, flip and brown on other side. Add oil as needed. Drain on paper towels, and sprinkle with additional salt to taste. If necessary, work in batches, keeping cooked pancakes warm. Serve hot with applesauce and sour cream, if desired.
Recipe from: nytimes.com |
| BLUE COLLAR MASHED POTATOES
Prep time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 10 minutes Makes 4 servings
2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and sliced 1 inch thick (about 4 medium potatoes) Kosher salt cup milk, buttermilk or skim milk 6 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted butter Freshly ground black pepper
Procedure: Place the potatoes in a large saucepan with enough salted cold water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat, and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes. Drain and return the potatoes to the empty pot. Cover and let stand for 5 minutes.
Heat the milk and butter in a small pan over low heat until the butter is melted. Pass the potatoes through a potato ricer or a food mill fitted with the fine blade then into a bowl. Beat in the hot milk mixture and add salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot.
Cook's note: Mashed potatoes can be made up to 45 minutes ahead and kept warm in a heatproof container in a warm (250 degrees) oven. Or they can be mashed up to 4 hours in advance. Turn them into a baking dish, let cool to room temperature and refrigerate, cover with aluminum foil. Reheat the potatoes, covered, in a 350 degree oven until very hot, about 35 minutes.
Recipe from: "Blue Collar Food," (1994, Hearst Books) by Chris Styler and Bill Hodge. |
| MASHED RED POTATOES
Prep time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 10 minutes Makes 4 servings
12 medium red new potatoes (about 1 pounds) 4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted butter 3 scallions, finely chopped 1 cup milk 1 tablespoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Procedure: Scrub the potatoes and cut into 1-inch cubes. Place in a large saucepan and pour in enough cold water to cover by 2 inches. Bring the water to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat, and simmer, uncovered, until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.
While the potatoes are cooking, heat the butter in a small saucepan over low heat. When the butter is melted, add the scallions and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the milk and cook just until heated through. Remove from the heat.
Drain the potatoes and transfer to a mixing bowl. Mash with a potato masher while gradually adding the milk mixture. Stop when the potatoes are the texture you like. Check the seasoning and add more salt, pepper, or butter if desired. Serve hot.
Recipe from: "Blue Collar Food," (1994, Hearst Books) by Chris Styler and Bill Hodge. |
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Date published: 12/12/2007
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