She: All desserts--all four score of them, it seems, given the proportions of the dessert tray--are made on-site, from cheesecakes to sacher tortes. Three forks went into the fluffy, coconut-rich German chocolate cake ($7.95), and despite everyone's best effort, some of the strawberry-and-cream-surrounded confection still left in a to-go box.

It's the way of The Bavarian Chef. Few diners go home empty-handed.

He: Last thoughts: It's not about the portions, which undeniably surpass generous. It's about a surpassingly skilled kitchen, combined with elegant service and a congenial atmosphere.

She: And if you need an excuse to get out that way, check our sidebar for other upcoming events in the area.

As if anyone needs an excuse to go to The Bavarian Chef.

Nancy Dearing Rossbacher and Stephen W. Sylvia publish a Civil War magazine together. She likes to cook. He likes to eat. To reach Rossbacher and Sylvia, e-mail them at editor@nstcivil war.com. Or call 540/374-5430 with comments about today's review.