BY NANCY DEARING ROSSBACHER AND STEPHEN W. SYLVIA

FOR THE FREE LANCE-STAR

He: First, a note to boaters. Chelsea Jo's at Lake Anna is not technically on the lake--there's no water access to it. But one bite of their chicken wings might incline boaters to arrange for the very short land hop required to arrive there.

She: Although the only H2O at Chelsea Jo's is in the water glasses, the restaurant manages to impart an uncontrived beachy atmosphere. Padded ocean-color booths, a suntanned clientele, upbeat music (everything from Jimmy Buffett to Katy Perry) and laid-back laughter emanating from the snug, sloped-roof bar all contribute to a summer-vacation feel.

Even the outdoor dining area curiously manages to seem as though it might overlook lapping waves rather than a gravel parking lot, which is a pretty neat trick.

He: The previously mentioned wings are available in hot (but not so hot you need a flame-retardant suit) and mild (a barbecue-style sauce). Every single one in an order of 12 ($7.95) was plump, meaty and tender.

She: You can take the edge off any hot-wings afterburn with the house drink: a frothy rum concoction dubbed the Dirty Banana. Piled high with whipped cream and topped with a cherry, it's not going to earn any machismo points for men seen drinking it, but that's the nature of a vacation: Who cares?

He: Along with the expected burgers-BLTs-fries selections are a number of dinner entrees, which include a special every night. Friday's showcase was a pound of steamed, spiced, peel-and-eat shrimp ($13.95), which were of good size and well-prepared.

Entrees come with a choice of two sides, including a creditable coleslaw and plentiful french fries. Those seeking a lighter side dish can choose the house salad, which was crisp iceberg lettuce dotted with ripe cherry tomatoes. The house dressing was an unusually substantial honey-mustard.

She: Our genial server, who belied the tongue-in-cheek wall sign behind her that read "Beware attack waitress," recommended the chicken-fried steak ($10.95), which she described as "big."

The sign should've read "Beware understating waitresses," for the crisply coated steak was the approximate circumference of Lake Anna itself.

Diners can opt for a smooth and gently peppery white sauce--the traditionalist's pick and my recommendation--or a rich and thick brown gravy.

Accompanying mashed potatoes were lumpy enough to have genuine character and well matched the down-home steak, as did the green beans laced with onion and bits of ham.

He: Last thoughts: Relaxed and friendly Chelsea Jo's is a taste of the shore just offshore.

She: Even if you go with a non-seafood selection, the atmosphere is such that you might forget you're landlocked.

Nancy Dearing Rossbacher and Stephen W. Sylvia publish a Civil War magazine together. She likes to cook. He likes to eat. To reach Rossbacher and Sylvia, e-mail them at editor@nstcivil war.com. Or call 540/374-5430 with comments about today's review.