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The light on Devil's Island, erected in 1898, is literally a landmark along Apostle Islands National Lakeshore.
The bluffs, with their greenery and grand old houses, form the backdrop for |
By KERRI WESTENBERG
STAR TRIBUNE (MINNEAPOLIS)
BAYFIELD, Wis.--
First thing visitors to Bayfield notice is the view of Lake Superior.Its gleaming blue waters practically wrap the town, which, after all, is why many people visit in the first place.
Other signs that this is among the sweetest of Midwest small towns include well-kept geraniums swaying atop lampposts, fudge shops doubling as welcome committees and cute cottages dotting the hills.
Bayfield offers more than just a pretty face. Fruit farms abound along country lanes practically made for bicycling. Ferries convey passengers to Madeline and other Apostle Islands. The stage at Big Top Chautauqua entertains with a wide variety of shows.
FRUITFUL ROAMING
I turned down a dirt road, following the signs to North Wind Farm, and saw chickens, a barn and a solar collector on a tall pole (to reach above the trees). Then came the farmer wearing buckskin shorts sewn together with leather string. The farm is off the grid, and its organic raspberries are off-the-charts good (715/779-3254).
Other standout orchards include Blue Vista Farm (715/779-5400), with lovely views of Lake Superior and Erickson's Orchard and Country Store, which serves fresh apple cider doughnuts all day long (715/779-5438).
UNDER THE BIG TOP
National acts and regional performers take the stage at the 900-seat Lake Superior Big Top Chautauqua.
The blue-and-white canvas rises from the base of Mount Ashwabay Ski Hill, just three miles outside Bayfield. Grab a brat and beer before the show. (888/244-8368; bigtop.org).
SHINING A LIGHT
Six historic lighthouses dot the Apostle Islands around the Bayfield Peninsula. Apostle Islands Cruise Service brings visitors to the lighthouse on Raspberry Island, which was reopened in 2007 after extensive renovations. A variety of narrated cruises include the 55-mile Grand Tour. Prices range from $55 for a round-trip ferry to popular camp spot Stockton Island to $18 for the children's rate for the Islander Lighthouse Cruise, with no stops (800/323-7619; apostleisland.com).
TWO-WHEELING
Whether you want to tour area orchards or pedal for miles along the lakefront, you can rent bikes (or get your own repaired) at Bayfield Bike Route in downtown Bayfield (715/209-6864). The shop also has maps to various bike routes.
DON'T MISS
The night was appropriately creepy, with winds and clouds, when I took the "Ghosts and Legends of Old Bayfield" walking tour, which stopped at several supposedly haunted locales. (715/779-0299; bayfieldheritagetours.com).
GEOGRAPHY LESSON: Bayfield is on the east side of the Bayfield Peninsula, which juts from Lake Superior's South Shore between Superior and Ashland, Wis. The town is known as the gateway to the Apostle Islands, a collection of 22 islands, including Madeline Island, that are part of the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore. CHECKING IN: The classic bed-and-breakfast in downtown Bayfield is the Rittenhouse Inn, which has a restaurant and a long porch with views of Lake Superior (800/779-2129; rittenhouse inn.com). Another option a few miles from downtown is the Pinehurst Inn, with a grand brick and stone main house and a garden house built using green principles. Each room in the garden house has a fireplace and whirlpool tub (877-499-7651; pinehurstinn.com). TRAVELER INFO: Contact the Bayfield Chamber of Commerce and Visitor Bureau, 800/447-4094 or bay field.org. |
