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>> SUPER SUSHI AND LOTS MORE MAKE KENZO A MUST-VISIT JAPANESE CUISINE EXPERIENCE

November 12, 2009 12:36 am

By LINDA SALISBURY

FOR THE FREE LANCE-STAR

Like the brushwork in a delicate Japanese painting, the artistically presented sushi at Kenzo is breathtakingly beautiful. Fortunately, it's not too beautiful to eat, and the flavors match its looks.

Two sushi chefs prepare the 75 sushi options at the popular restaurant tucked in the Westwood shopping center in Fredericksburg. Diners may sit at tables or at the sushi bar, where they can watch the chefs in action.

My Dining Partner and I, seated at one of the tables, started with the sashimi appetizer ($10.95), with two pieces each of raw salmon, tuna, yellowtail and red snapper.

Unlike sushi, sashimi is not wrapped in seaweed. Instead, the fish is elegantly draped or rolled over mounds of white rice.

In this presentation, thin slices of one variety of fish encircled a bouquet of sprouts. The fish was fresh and ready for our dipping mix of wasabi and soy sauce to kick up the flavor, along with fresh ginger.

MDP ordered spicy maki (a type of seaweed) sushi--the spicy eel roll ($5.60). Eel would not be my first choice; however, I had to admit that it was excel-lent when I sampled it.

There are many artful meal options to satisfy a variety of tastes. There are a number of tempura or skewer plates on the appetizer list, and noodle dishes, cutlets, bento boxes and teriyaki dishes as entree selections.

The entrees are served with a salad with a traditional sesame dressing, and miso soup. Both, especially the miso, had more depth of flavor than most Japanese restaurants we've visited.

Whole wheat and rice noodles are available. MDP ordered the Yaki Udon, pan-fried rice noodles with a stir-fry of beef and fresh vegetables ($10.95). The pencil-thick, long, round noodles are impressive in size, shape and flavor.

The savory vegetable medley of mushrooms, squash and onions was the perfect accompaniment.

I decided to have one of my favorite dishes, salmon teriyaki ($14.95). The 10-ounce portion (two pieces) of salmon was perfectly cooked, and the teriyaki sauce did not overwhelm the fish.

The same delicious vegetable mix that MDP was enjoying was included on my platter.

Our only complaint was the arrival of the courses. The handcrafted appetizers from the sushi bar came out just after our entrees arrived, instead of before the meal. And entrees arrived before we had finished the miso and salad.

On a future visit, we'll hold off on ordering the main course until after we enjoy the sushi menu--but return we will.

Linda Salisbury is the author of an award-winning adventure series for kids.