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Culpeper's Radishes and Roses delivers great food at reasonable prices Date published: 11/19/2009
BY NANCY DEARING ROSSBACHER FOR THE FREE LANCE-STAR She: I don't even want to think about what time Miki Chilton gets up in the morning. The quiches? Homemade. The soups? From scratch. The barbecue? Freshly cooked and hand-pulled. If the cookery didn't deserve kudos (which it does), the energy level would. He: Culpeper's Radishes & Roses, which originally opened five years ago at a Lovers Lane location, moved downtown to West Cameron Street last year. To adjust to the smaller space, husband-and-wife team Scott and Miki Chilton pared down their collection of large, nostalgic black-and-white photos--auto-obsessed teens in the 1950s and election-eve Kennedy in 1960--and splashed the walls with a cheerful mango color. The effect is simple yet inviting. She: The dishes are grander in scale than the modest setting. A "cup" of soup ($2.95) was delivered in a bowl-size vessel. (Note to readers: Please do not give the Chiltons smaller dishes for Christmas.) The soup specials of the day included a homey meld of plump rice with substantial chunks of turkey, and a creamy Italian spinach dusted with fennel. He: Echoing this generosity was a slice of one of several quiches available ($3.95). The cheddar, ham and broccoli were all in ample evidence, and the nicely browned crust suggested that it would have come close to equaling the figure "" on a pie chart. For $5.95, the quiches come with a ride-along salad and chips. She: Sandwiches, hot and cold, are a main feature of the menu, and they carry names regional (the Raccoon Ford) and personal (the Pop Chilton). The Mountain Run ($5.95) rewards the diner with a kaiser roll heaped with the aforementioned hand-pulled barbecue: gently cooked, tender, and served with dipping sauces that are either Texan or--the local favorite--vinegary North Carolinian in attitude. Crunchy, carrot-laced slaw and a pile of ruffly chips round out the satisfying basket of down-home fare.
Date published: 11/19/2009
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