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Pre-winter TLC for trees, shrubs
Take some extra care of shrubs and trees to prepare them for the winter
Date published: 11/20/2009

IT'S A GOOD IDEA to give your trees and shrubs some extra consideration in the fall to help them get through the winter in peak condition and be ready for spring.

Winter damage can be roughly divided into three categories: desiccation, or drying out, freezing and breakage.

Desiccation is a particular problem with evergreens, causing them to appear discolored or burned and even killing them. Winter wind contributes to this, coupled with frozen ground that prevents the uptake of water.

Freezing damage occurs most often in the fall or early spring when an early or late frost will severely damage green (new) wood or blossoms. Midwinter freezing often takes the form of bark splitting. This happens when a cold snap follows a particularly warm day. The sun heats up dark-colored tree trunks and gets the sap flowing. Severe cold causes the bark to contract and split.

Breakage is caused by ice, snow, wind or any combination of the three. The ice storm of February 1994 is an example. There was not much snow, but plenty of ice and wind. The weight of the ice broke many branches.

Damage from such an epic event may be impossible to prevent, but there are some things you can do to minimize winter damage.

First, select hardy plants, known to grow well in our area. If you choose a tender specimen, put it in a sheltered spot. Make sure it is well-drained, away from harsh sun and wind, and away from the eaves of the house, where falling snow or water may damage it.

Avoid late-summer or early-fall fertilization, as this will stimulate new growth that could be damaged by frost. Fertilize evergreens in late fall so the stimulation and nutrients go to the roots. Avoid late summer pruning, as this has the same effect as fertilization and will stimulate new growth at the wrong time.

Water plants deeply in preparation for winter, and mulch fairly heavily, leaving about two to three inches of bare ground around the base of the tree, or shrub.

PLANTING NATIVE TREES

Native trees are desirable because natives use less water and nutrients than do non-native ornamental species. But there are still several considerations. The environment in your yard may not be what is actually native for the plant, even though it originated in Virginia.


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Mac Saphir is an agent in Virginia Cooperative Extension's Bowling Green office specializing in crop and soil science. Phone 804/633-6550; fax 804/633-2429; e-mail msaphir@vt.edu.



Date published: 11/20/2009



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