BY LINDA SALISBURY

FOR THE FREE LANCE-STAR

The Lake Anna area, bereft for many years of a variety of eating options, now has several new restaurants. Among those opening in 2011 was Chef Lee, a Chinese non-buffet restaurant with a full menu. It is the second restaurant for Chef Lee, who has a similar restaurant in Goochland. The menu features various styles of dishes, including Hunan.

My Dining Partner and I visited it for dinner on a busy Monday evening during the holidays. The restaurant, near the new Food Lion, is handsomely designed. There's a glass division between the bar and the eating area, and the paneled walls have a simple, geometric pattern. Tables and booths are available.

We began with soup. I ordered a cup of hot and sour ($1.60) and was pleased with its temperature and spiciness. There was just enough "heat" to earn its name, without being overwhelming. MDP enjoyed his cup of egg drop soup ($1.60), which had a hearty chicken broth and was saturated with swirls of egg.

We continued with an appetizer sampler for two ($12) that provided a good variety: pork spareribs, chicken wings, creamy crab rangoon, beef sticks and spring rolls. That and a bowl of soup could easily have made a meal. The platter arrived hot and all of the selections had good flavor, although the beef sticks were chewy.

There are many entree selections, from traditional noodle dishes to the "chef's suggestions."

MDP selected beef and broccoli ($10.80), a heaping plate of broccoli covered with chunks of tender beef and sauce. The vegetable had been prepared with the beef so it had absorbed the flavoring, yet was not overcooked. His fried rice was also well-prepared and served hot.

I ordered orange chicken ($11.50) with white rice. The chicken chunks are coated with lotus flour, and cooked so that the interiors are tender and the outsides are crispy. The sauce had a lovely orange flavor without being overly sweet.

We were also pleased with our attentive and cheerful service.

Because of the large portions, we took home half of our entrees.

Even with all we ordered, our bill was under $40 for two, putting Chef Lee in a category of good value. It is a welcome addition to the area for either eat-in or takeout.

Linda Salisbury is the author of the Bailey Fish books, an award-winning adventure series for kids.