BY LINDA SALISBURY

FOR THE FREE LANCE-STAR

There's a lot of buzz at Lake Anna about the upcoming opening of a new Tim's restaurant at Lake Anna (at the new Boardwalk complex on U.S. 522), so we decided to pay a spring visit to Tim's II at Fairview Beach, the first spinoff of the original restaurant in Dumfries. We quickly realized why the seafood and steak eatery is popular and would be sought-after in the new location.

Although the parking lot is in Virginia, the restaurant with indoor and outside seating is technically in Maryland, one of those quirky jurisdictional things that allows Maryland lottery tickets to be sold over the water. The breeze was strong enough that we decided to enjoy the expansive view of the Potomac from within.

We began with an order of crab balls ($9.75) and another of steamed oysters (half-dozen for $8.95). My Dining Partner had planned to order steamed mussels, but Tim's was out. The six succulent crab balls were almost as large as golf balls, nicely fried, and created from crab meat with no filler evident. (On another visit I will have a crab cake for dinner!) The oysters varied in size and, unfortunately, the smaller ones were over-steamed.

MDP ordered a bowl of cream of crab soup ($5.95). The soup was fresh-flavored and full of pieces of crab, but the temperature could have been hotter.

For his entree, MDP selected the soft-shell crab platter ($19.95). The two large fried soft-shells were served with bite-sized hush puppies and a choice of sides. He opted for the potato salad and baked beans. Although the soft-shell crabs, too, were a bit overcooked, the amount was plentiful and the sides tasted homemade, as did my coleslaw. The excellent baked beans were cooked with pieces of chopped onion, which added flavor.

I ordered the broiled rockfish sandwich ($9.95), which was served on a soft hamburger bun. The portion of meaty fish was generous, and it was seasoned with lemon and pepper.

The restaurant was filling up quickly on a Saturday afternoon as we watched a heaping tray of dozens of steamed crabs being carried to a group eating on the deck.

We decided to split the restaurant's signature dessert: Rivershore Mud Pie ($5.25), a tall slice of home-style vanilla ice cream pie topped with a crumbed Snickers bar, slick whipped cream and drizzled chocolate. That concoction alone is worth the approximately 15-mile drive from Fredericksburg. The restaurant is fun and ideally situated for a seafood meal.

Linda Salisbury is the author of the Bailey Fish books, an award-winning adventure series for kids.